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OK so what if it isn 't on Michelin 's map, in my book it 's Le Relais Routier on steroids. As you drive south out of the Cote d 'Or you come to this little crossroads at Chagny and there is what we in the US would call a truck stop . But the truckers in France have a taste for something better than chicken fried steak and mashed potatoes. Unfortunately this type of restaurant has become something of a rarity, maybe because so much of the traffic goes by way of the sterile and faceless Autoroutes. But this particular part of the country has an even higher order for gastronomy as it is home to the greatest wines in the world. So even the truckstops have to be good if they 're going to stay in...